Today’s post-breakfast group activity commenced with a walking tour of old town Vilnius that was to culminate in a Home-Hosted meal at a nearby village. But our plans were a bit different.
We joined the group tour, making our first stop at the twin churches of St. Anne’s and the Church of St. Francis (of Assisi)/St. Bernard around the corner from our hotel. We had seen both buildings on our first day here. This time however, we entered both. St. Anne’s had a remarkable webbed ceiling remeniscent of a spider web. Sts. F & B’s was a little shabbier, probably due to its neglect during the Soviet occupation.
The tour continued on to cathedral square, which we also entered.
One of the paving tiles in Cathedral Square, located halfway between the church and its bell tower, is decorated with the word “stebuklas” which means “miracle”. According to a local legend, one should stand on the magic square, make a wish, turn three times, and their dream will come true. I gave it a whirl…but have forgotten my wish.
I remained with my fellow travelers until reaching the street that led to town hall square. Here, due to increasing knee issues, I veered off, made my way to the square, and then settled in on the steps of the Town Hall building to await the group’s arrival.
Rob continued on the tour with Aida and the rest until they made their way to the square.
I rejoined the touring group and we all proceeded to the Gate of Dawn, climbing to the upstairs chapel that houses the venerated icon of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn. Having been here two days ago, our stay was brief indeed.
Leaving the chapel, we diverged from Grand Circle’s agenda. Exiting the Old Town via the city gate, we were picked up by Česlovas for our own Home-Hosted Adventure, starting what became 13-hours of visiting with newly-introduced relatives and a triple-header of Lithuanian hospitality.
First, we went to Alytus–a small city SSW of Vilnius–to meet Albinas Švedkauskas and his wife Almone. He’s a bee-keeper in his retirement. We had a hell of a time trying to locate his apartment block in the warren of Soviet-era apartment buildings. Once located, introductions were made and we were invited into their home for what was the first of our Lithuanian meals.
They had put together a luncheon that started with cocktails (champagne and white brandy); then continued with appetizers (cold meats, vegetables, & breads) and a main course (chicken stuffed with mushrooms, cabbage & carrot slaw and incredible roasted potatoes); finally ending with an assortment of natural “sweets” (cucumber & cheese topped with fresh honey from the hives as well as an assortment of honey products and by-products including raisin-like nuggets, sesame-like seeds and honeycomb slices from which one extracted the honey by sucking!) A steaming cup of coffee with honey (I passed on the sweetener) capped the feast.
Then, with the table cleared, I powered up the MacBook and we started “talking” family trees. Česlovas has recently traced the family back an additional 100-150 years with a documented ancestor from @1600 AD. He gave me a few PDFs that I will examine and incorporate into my over-all family tree. Exciting, eh?
After lunch, the four of us — Česlovas, Albinas, Rob & I — piled into the car and traveled to Miraslova where Grandma Swetkis was born. We took a few shots of the parish church where many of the historical records originated. Unfortunately, the current building is a replacement for the one that Grandma would have attended–it has been over 100 years and two world wars ago–so there can be no real sentiment attached to this particular edifice.
Leaving Miroslova, we drove to Balkisodis. With a turn onto a dirt road, then created our own “lane” that snaked through the gently rolling grass until we came to the buildings and beehives that are Albinas’ hobby.
After a very brief tour, we retraced our route to the main dirt road and rounded the corner to pull into the driveway leading to the original Švedkauskas farm where Grandpa Swetkis was born. The house is “still” there–although it’s been pretty much replaced due to fires, expansions and/or remodels over the century–along with a barn, assorted storage buildings…and an outhouse.
As our car was backing up to park, people begin to emerge from the house. The first to approach the car was an elderly gentleman (Albinas’ brother-in-law). Then Albinas’ two sisters. Then several men and women of the next generation (our peers). Then several of “the younger folks.” And, finally, two great-grandchildren!
Of course, Rob and I were painfully aware that, outside of Česlovas, we are the sole English-speakers in this sea of relations. (An assumption that, thankfully, proved to be wrong soon enough.) Smiling and nodding a lot, photos were taken. And then we were invited into the house…for another meal! The table was beautifully laid out with seats aplenty for the entire family. And the requisite cold meats, veggies, slaws and breads already plated were soon augmented with hot dishes of prepared chicken and chunks of pork rib…with sliced bakery, wrapped chocolates and fresh peaches waiting on the sideboard for their time (and some available space on the table.)
To quote my Lithuanian language podcast: “Oho!”
What I have failed to mention previously is that when Česlovas picked us up that morning, he mentioned that there had been a change of plans. Previously, he and his wife, Vida, had invited us to their home for dinner the next evening. They had decided to have us over today instead — making a day of it — after we made the Grand (Relative) Tour!
My dreams of keeping the waistline in check by all the walking through cobble-stoned Old Town were shattered!
To make a long (food) story short, we partook judiciously–although the chicken & pork were too, too exceptional to only taste just once…or even just twice!
But, what really got the whole event rolling–especially once we discovered that the three third-generation cousins were fairly conversant in English (Whew!)–was the drinking! Now I had been warned on one of my Lithuanian Out Loud language podcasts against trying to “keep up with the natives” when the vodka is brought out.
But they failed to mention French brandy! Simply put, after a shot of vodka and a round of champagne for pretty much all drinking-age guests, the brandy shots were started by & for the 2nd and 3rd generation crowd–which included, among others, Rob & I and our three English-speaking saviors.
The shots did not stop until two bottles were history. But everyone had a great time–the smiles all around overcame the language barrier (somewhat). I know Rob and I found it to be a memorable experience.
Filled to the gills with food and drink, the four us squeezed into Česlovas’ car for a very quiet ride back to Alytus to drop Albinas home. Then, it was off to Česlovas’ house….and another dinner? Fortunately, Česlovas read the audience well, called ahead and cancelled any full-on meal. We met his lovely wife Vida, who actually studied English in school (Česlovas is self-taught.) who made a light cucumber salad, the perfect final feast on this perfect day.
Our Baltic Adventure 